Is My Lavender Plant Dead? How to Tell if It’s Truly Gone or Just Waking Up?

After a long New England winter, one of the most common questions we hear from gardeners and new farmers is: "Is my lavender plant dead?" We completely understand why they ask - lavender can look pretty sad after months of snow, frost, and wind. When the winter melts away and we are left with woody, skeletal plants there is always a moment of unease - even for us.

Before you lose hope, consider these key aspects to properly assess your plant's health. Lavender is a tough, drought-tolerant plant, but it's also a bit slow to get moving in the spring. What looks like a lost cause might just need more time and some TLC! Here’s how we can usually tell if our lavender plants are truly dead/damaged or just taking their sweet time waking up.

Look at a Calendar Before Looking At Your Plants

In cool climates, lavender likes to hit snooze. Mid to late spring is when it usually stretches its leaves and decides it's time to make its big debut - but It all depends on the weather. A slow-to-wake plant isn’t necessarily dead; it might just be waiting for consistently warmer soil temps before it starts pushing out new growth.

Pro Tip: If your lavender hasn’t shown signs of life by mid to late May, it's probably not coming back.

Since lavender often breaks dormancy later than other perennials, especially in colder climates like New Hampshire, the first and most important sign of life to check for is new green growth, especially around the base of the plant. Here's what to do:

• Look closely at the bottom of the stems near the soil line. If you see small, silvery-green leaves starting to push through, your plant is alive and well—it’s just slowly re-emerging.

• Don’t panic if the top growth looks gray or dry. Lavender tends to push new growth from the lower woody part of the stem first.

  
  

Pro tips: 

• Gently scratch a stem with your fingernail. If there’s green underneath the bark, the stem is still alive. If it’s brown and brittle all the way through, that part is likely dead.

• If there is no chance of frost, feel free to prune any dead or unsightly growth to ensure new leaves get the most possible sunlight and your plant retains a neat dome shape without becoming overgrown with leggy wooden areas.

Its Springtime! What's Going On With Your Plant!?

Lavender was originally compatible to live within with Mediterranean climates, but pioneering specialty breeders such as Peace Tree Farm have developed varieties that can withstand harsh winters. So, even though these plants can take the winters, something deep down in their gentic code is probably thinking "What?!"

If the winter was particularly hard, or any of these things happened to your plant(s) you should expect dieback.

• Cold snaps without snow cover

• Heavy, wet snow that crushed stems

• Poor drainage, leading to root rot

• Unpruned woody growth that snapped or split

That being said, it’s completely normal for some parts of your plant to die off over winter—especially older, woodier stems. That doesn’t mean the whole plant is gone- you just have to prune accordingly to make sure the healthy potions of the plant stay healthy, and that it will have the needed space to regain its dome shape. Lavender can regenerate beautifully from its base even if the upper structure took damage.

Check the crown (the center of the plant where all the stems meet the roots). If it’s soft and malleable, mushy, or black, that may indicate rot. But if it's firm, dry, and springs back into place after gently bending stems, there's hope. A lavender plant can look half-dead and still be entirely salvageable.

My Plant is Alive...But It Looks Terrible

Lavender thrives when it’s pruned consistently. Pruning not only encourages fresh growth, it prevents the plant from becoming leggy and woody over time. But timing is everything.

Spring Pruning

Wait until after new growth appears. This is usually late April to early May in our region, depending on the weather. Once you see green shoots, trim back any clearly dead, brittle stems—usually about one-third of the plant. Be careful not to cut into the base where new shoots are emerging.

Fall Pruning (Light Only)

In late summer or early fall (after blooming ends), you can give your lavender a light shape-up. Avoid hard pruning in the fall—cutting too deeply can leave the plant vulnerable to winter kill.

Remember: Never cut into bare wood unless you’re sure it’s dead. Lavender won’t regrow from old wood the way some other shrubs might.

Lavender is resilient, but it's also very headstrong and only does the things it wants to do. If you’re unsure whether your plant made it through the winter, start by looking for new growth, checking for live stems, and pruning away what’s clearly dead. Give it time, and resist the urge to overwater while it’s dormant—lavender prefers “dry and ignored” over “wet and worried.”

Still unsure? Bring us a photo or stop by Pumpkin Blossom Farm this spring. We’re always happy to take a look and help you decide whether to revive, replant, or just give it a little more time.